The last few weeks, I have been picking up more projects and jobs around the lodge to help out the team here at African Impact. There's always something to do here in addition to the daily and weekly work assignments. The staff members are very busy and sometimes frustrated that they do not have the time to do what they need to get done, so I've been trying to help whenever I can. I may be overdoing it because I'm getting a reputation as a workaholic. The truth is that I would really like to work here long term, so I am trying to do everything I can to show that I can be a valuable team member.
Most people who know me know that I have a lot of energy when I'm motivated, so I have also been telling the team here that I'm willing to help with other projects, including the work nobody else feels like doing. Happily, they have taken my offer to help seriously. The office was unorganized so they asked me to help get it organized. It took two whole days to clean out everything. Once I got started, it became pretty obvious why the cleaning staff cleans the lodge every single day. This is Africa, so I had to deal with many bugs, lots of dirt, and even dead mice and birds. Once everything was clean, I put things back in drawers, bookcases, shelves, and even the storage room. I didn't mind doing the dirty works since I came here to volunteer. During unscheduled time, I would rather have something to do rather than sitting around. Everything I do here feels like it's for a good cause. After all, a clean office makes the staff happier =).
After cleaning out the office, I was sort of on a roll, so I also cleaned out and organized the equipment room. I have been the equipment manager ever since I first got here. Basically that job involves getting the tools we need for conservation projects together and ready to go. I also have to make sure none of the tools goes missing or gets lost while we are out on the land, so I take inventory before we leave the conservation area. As you can imagine, the equipment room was even dirtier than the office, full of dirt, spider webs, and gecko poop. Tools were unorganized, clustered together and falling all over the place. It was hard to get the tools out without tripping over anything. Now I'm pleased to say, the equipment room is very organized. There's plenty of space to walk into the room and grab the tools that are needed for specific projects.
Not all of the clean ups involves cobwebs. I have also been helping the photography team clean up their database. There are so many photos in the database, but there's no way to find the ones you want unless they have good keywords. Some of the volunteers don't understand this, so they don't bother keywording their photos. In other cases, keywords are misspelled or in different language. Sometimes keywords don't even match with the photos. Cleaning up the database is very time-consuming and frustrating, but connecting the right keywords with the photos means that staff will be able to use the photos taken by volunteers more effectively.
Now that I'm one of the more experienced volunteers, I've also started helping new volunteers. I can get their questions answered and show them how things are done around here. I try to make sure they are having good times and no trouble. It was especially satisfying to teach some of the photography volunteers to set up to take photos of star trails and seeing their reaction as they got their first results. I realized that I love teaching people what I've learned about photography.
I know some people thought I would get tired of being in Africa after three months. The reality is that I find myself wishing I could stay here and do this kind of work all year long. It's really hard for me to think about returning to America in 3 weeks. I feel a little bad about saying this, but I'm not really looking forward to going back to my old life and the job I had in the States. There's something about Africa that truly makes me happy and heal my spirit. I am glad to do any kind of work because even the dirty, nasty jobs feel meaningful. That may not make a lot of sense to people back home, but I feel like I finally understand why some people are willing to work harder than others. When you find what you truly love, work is satisfying and even joyful.
Monday, April 8, 2013
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Zulu Wedding
This weekend, I was honored with a rare
invitation. One of our guides was getting married. The wedding
ceremony was on Easter Sunday. Many of the volunteers were leaving to
return to home or go on to their next adventure somewhere. Only
four volunteers were still here, so we were invited, along with the staff,
to attend the wedding. The festivities began at our guide’s home
where his pre-wedding ceremony was being performed.
As soon as we arrived and got out of the vans,
we were surrounded by a crowd of people. The guide’s entire family
came over and gave us greeting hugs. I couldn’t believe how friendly everyone
was. They treated us like celebrities. I realized that we were
the only white guests. People were talking videos or photos of
us with their phones or cameras. I instantly fell in love with these
people knew immediately that it was going to be a very special day!
I haven't been to a lot of weddings but this ceremony
was very different from what people do in the US and, for all I know in Africa
outside of South Africa. There was lots, lots, lots of dancing. It
went on for hours! First, the women were dancing and leading the
bride to one of the huts. The men led our guide to
meet the bride in the hut to prepare for the ceremony. Our guide cut the center
out some kind of skin and placed it over the bride’s head so the skin
acted almost like a poncho. The hut was very hot because so many people
were inside singing and dancing. When I left the hut to get ready to
photograph people coming out, sweat was pouring off me!
Then the guide and his bride were led back to the
open land with more dancing and singing. I don’t think the guests ever took a
break from singing and dancing! The guide and his best men (I’m assuming) got
front row seats so they could enjoy the dancing and singing the women
did on the open land. The bride and bridesmen would dance toward to a
group of people and throw their sticks or spears down into the ground in front
of them. Then they danced back to where the rest of the women
were dancing. The bride got down on a mat on her knees and waited. The
group with the sticks and spears in front of them picked up the sticks and
spears and walked over to the bride to place money on the bride’s hat. This
ritual was repeated over and over. There were many groups, so giving
these gifts took hours.
With the permission of the people, I was
taking many many many photographs of the ceremony. At one point, I
was saying to one of the local women that watching the women dance was very addicting. It
made me wants to join and dance with them. I tried to learn the traditional
Zulu dance by paying close attention to their moves. One of the members of
the team told me to try the dance. I noticed people watching me
and I was a bit hesitant because I didn’t want to offend anybody. But the local
woman and my friend kept encouraging me so I finally decided to do the Zulu
dance for the first time. Whoops. It turned out to be the most embarrassing and
funniest moment of my entire life.
Everything else about the ceremony was epic. Watching
everybody dancing and having the time of their life was mesmerizing. I
don't know this culture well but I felt its power and its pull. Later, one
of my friends told me that she was watching me take photographs of the
ceremony. She could tell that I was really into the moment and the
dancing. Even though I was taking pictures, I didn't feel like
an observer. I felt like I was being drawn into the lives of these
vibrant, generous people. I feel very honored and humble to have been
invited to the Zulu wedding ceremony. It's an experience I will never ever
forget.
There’s still a lot I do not understand about the culture in South
Africa, but I love the open-heartedness of the people. I may not
understand what they are saying, but what I have seen with my eyes are
people who are friendly, colorful, full of life and always smiling. Everywhere
I go, people wave and give me a thumbs-up. All of this goodwill has
an effect on me. I find myself being more friendlier, waving or
giving a thumbs-up to other people. It's like a chain reaction that
generates good feelings, and I love being part of it.
Thursday, March 28, 2013
Elephant Week
Our guide for the week was an expert on elephants.
I like to believe that he’s one of the elephant whisperers, although he doesn’t
whisper to the elephants. He talks to them in booming voice. And he knows where
to find them. Somehow on Monday he guided us to an entire herd
of elephants that was marching toward one of the water holes. He parked
the Land Rover right in the path of the herd, and they marched right
by us. He did it again. And again. They were on a mission, and they didn't
really care that we were there. Some completely ignored us, some glanced at us,
some gave us a warning flair of their huge ears. They just kept marching and we
kept clicking our cameras. It was an extraordinary experience.
I had never seen elephants at a waterhole before,
so this was another first for me. The elephants all stood at the edge of the
water and sucked in water with their trunks. Then they tucked their trunks
into their mouths and spurted water. Different elephants had different
styles. Some were messy with water gushing all over; some were very elegant and
didn't waste a drop of water. I noticed some youngsters
were helping the littlest calves, guiding them to the water. The herd
is extremely close. They all help each other and protect the little
ones. It occurred to me that many human families could take a lesson
or two from this herd.
On Tuesday evening, we found the herd
again. This time, we witnessed many fights among the male elephants.
From what I learned, the males fight to practice, to assert
their power, to establish their position in the herd or simply to
have fun. It's hard to explain how huge these animals are. The fights
almost seem to be in slow motion because the combatants are so big. I
could literally hear their tusks clashing with each other so you know the fight
was intense and loud. Our guide had to move the Land Rover out of the
way a few times to be sure we wouldn't get squashed by nearby
elephant fights.
On Wednesday evening, our elephant whisperer
tried his hardest to track down the herd once again, but the
herd outsmarted us, walking into thicker bushes and trees. We tried to
follow them, which was pretty rough on the tires of the Land
Rover. Eventually, one of the tires got poked in the wrong
place by a pointy branch. We had a flat tire right in the middle of the
wild! We knew there were elephants nearby in the thick bushes
because the hearing people in the vehicle could hear them moving around. We just
couldn’t see the elephants. That was pretty nerve-racking for me since I
couldn’t really hear the elephants but I knew they were
there!!! Fortunately, we managed to change tire before it got too
dark. Once again, the elephants were much less interested in us than we
were in them and they gave us no trouble.
Thursday evening, we found the male elephants in a
more accessible area. Let me tell you, this was probably one of the best drives
I have ever had because we had front row seats for a very dramatic
elephant fight. A youngster named Sawubona is one of my favorite
elephants. He is different from the other elephants because he
is very curious about the Land Rover. On Thursday, I was sitting
in the passenger seat beside the driver. Sawubona was
walking on my side of the vehicle. He was walking closer and
closer so that he could almost touch the Land Rover with the end of his
stretched trunk. He even sniffed me out and I really wondered if he was
going to try and touch me or grab me! I had never seen a wild elephant in an
extreme close-up, and it was awe-inspiring.
Sawubona also loves to to pick fights with
other bigger males. On Thursday, he was having a bad day. He
was trying so hard to win a fight against any of the big males. He fought
with two of the larger males and eventually admitted defeat by falling to the
ground in frustration. We watched all of this from what was literally the
best seat in the world. Then Sawubona did something that shocked all of
us. I guess he figured that if he couldn't beat one of the elephants, he
would take on the Land Rover. Suddenly, he was on his feet and charging
straight at us! Luckily our elephant whisperer started the
engine. The noise scared Sawubona, and our guide moved the
vehicle forward a bit to show him that we were ready to fight. Of
course, we were in an open vehicle, so we were pretty vulnerable, but Sawubona
didn’t know that. He stopped and walked away from us.
All of these elephant encounters made this a pretty
amazing week but there was more to come. Friday early morning, I finally
got to see a leopard! Leopards are in one of the most elusive animals in
Thanda. They don't like attention, and they are extremely good at
camouflage. After seven weeks of being here, I was so happy to finally see
a beautiful big cat with its amazingly clean coat and its rosette
spots. We first caught sight of the leopard walking down the road. As soon
as it heard the engine of the Land Rover, it moved quickly went into the thick
bushes and crouched down low. Luckily our guide was able to see where it went.
He parked right beside the bushes and turned off the engine.
Leopards blend in so well with the landscape that
we couldn't see him even though we knew he was there. We had to wait
patiently for the leopard to make a movement so we could find him. After a
while, our guide decided to move off the road and closer the bushes. Suddenly, I saw
the leopard moving off to another area of bush. We waited and
waited. I was in the back of the Land Rover, so I was keeping a very keen
eye out to make sure we didn’t miss him crossing the road behind
us. Sure enough, the leopard tried to slip across the road and into the
bushes on the other side. I told the guide where he was going and kept an
eye on the leopard while the guide backed up so we could see him more
clearly. It was almost impossible to get a good photo of him because he
was moving and hiding in the thick bushes. It made me realizes
that we probably pass leopards all the time and don't see them because they are
so good at hiding or simply laying low in the tall grass. Seeing a leopard
is always an incredible experience, even if you get nothing more than a
glimpse. All together in my life, I've seen leopards three times and it is
always a thrill.
I could go on and on about last week. We got
lucky with a rare sighting of two honey badgers. I held a blind snake. I
had another reunion with a familiar face from my first trip. I always feel
that every day at Thanda is an adventure, but last week was over the top. I've
said it before, but I'll say it again. This is an amazing place, and I am so
grateful to be here!!!
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Dream: Big Cats
I found out that my last blog post upset a few of my family members and friends. So sorry! Maybe I should have explained that it was a dream at the beginning of the
post. I was trying to make the blog exciting but maybe that was a
little too exciting. So let me make it clear right now. This is
another dream. I'm writing it down because it was just as vivid as the
dream about the crocodile. I don't dream this way when I'm at home and
I'm trying to figure out what it means.
This time the animal in the dream is a
big cat--not a leopard, cheetah or lion. This cat wasn't like anything I have actually seen but it
was big. At the beginning of the dream, I was with a group of
volunteers and staff members. We were having a little party
outside by the pool, just standing around and talking about life as we so often do. Suddenly I noticed two big cats
running on the far side of the pool. They
disappeared behind a wall of the lodge. Nobody else saw the cats, so I quickly grabbed one of our guides and
pointed out where the big cats were hiding. He
didn’t see them at first. But then they moved out from
behind the wall and closer to a tree. The guide saw them this time and announced to
everybody that we had to move inside slowly and quietly.
We all went upstairs in the lodge, thinking we would be safe on the second
floor. But the cats followed us. Everybody slowly backed up
and spread out. I was standing beside the railing of the stairs when one
of the cats took an interest in me. He
slowly walked up to me. I was standing totally still,
terrified but also amazed by being so close to
this beautiful animal. I hoped that if I stood still enough,
he wouldn’t think I was a living thing. He sniffed me as he walked
in a circle close enough so I could feel his tail brushing against my
legs. When the cat was behind me, I could see everyone else watching the two of us and I realized that two of the
guides were walking slowly to another room, probably to get something to defend us from
the cat.
Then I felt sharp pain in my right arm. For some reason, I didn’t move or scream in
pain. One of the cats had bitten me on my arm and wouldn't let
go. A staff member grabbed the cat's neck, pulled him off my arm
and threw the cat away from me. I was staring at my arm. There was a
large bite mark and it was starting to bleed. Another staff member grabbed me and moved me
away from the cats. “I need to sit down," I said. "I think
I’m going to pass out.” I guess I was in
shock. Fortunately, they helped me get to the wall and I
sat down on the floor with my back against the
wall.
That's when the other
cat decided to come after me. Suddenly the shock wore off and adrenalin
kicked in. I jumped up off the floor and faced
the cat. The second cat sniffed me. Out of the corner of
my eye, I could see the two guides who had gone to
get snatchers, long sticks with loops
on the end that let them grab the cats by their
necks. They couldn’t get in position to get the cat by me and,
just as he was about to open his mouth to take a bite, I grabbed the back of
his neck. By now, my arm was bleeding like crazy from the first
bite. The smell of blood was making the second cat wild and he was trying
to bite me anywhere he could. It took all my
strength to hold onto the back of his neck and keep his teeth
away from me. “Somebody get him!” I shouted.
Finally one of the guides got the snatcher around the cat's neck. He led the cat outside
where one of the anti-poaching units was preparing a dart to put him out. The
first cat was still walking around and the other guide was trying to corner him
to catch him with the snatcher. But the first cat was smarter than the second
cat. I knew he was eyeing me as I started
to make my way to out of the room to take care of my arm. Suddenly, I heard everybody yelling. I looked
back and saw the cat in the air
coming straight at me. As he knocked me to the floor, I grabbed his mouth
just like I did with the crocodile in the other dream. I have no idea how
but I was struggling to keep his mouth and sharp teeth away from
me. Just as I thought my strength would
fail me, the guide snatched him and led him away.
I woke from this
dream looking for the bite mark on my arms. I couldn’t believe that
I had another dream that felt so real. Every
detail was sharp in my memory. I’m still not sure what these dreams mean. When I described the new dream
to one of the staff, she suggested maybe I am
struggling or fighting with something in life that takes
the form of these animals in my dreams. I thought that was an
interesting theory since in both dreams, I was fighting to survive. On the other hand, I can't figure out what I am
fighting in real life.
There’s one thing I do know. Africa is a very
spiritual place. People here believe that dreams have
meaning. So, dear readers, I have two questions for you. What do
these dreams mean to you? And which blog post did you like reading
better?
Saturday, March 16, 2013
Crocodile
So I have this story that will probably blow your mind away. You know it ends well because I’m writing this, so please just hold your questions, comments, exclamations, or freak-outs until you’ve read the whole thing.
Two staff members, seven other volunteers and I decided to visit a wetland park full of crocodiles. We were supposed to meet our guides with their boats at a dock so we were driving in a Land Rover, trying to find the dock. We couldn’t seem to find it and the person driving the vehicle was getting frustrated because we were going to be late so she started speeding a little bit. Then suddenly, out of nowhere, the staff member sitting in the passenger seat, pointed at something in front of her and shouted, “There it is. STOP!” The driver tried to slow down, but there wasn’t enough time so she slammed down the brakes.
The Land Rover stopped before driving into the water, but I didn’t. I went flying out of the vehicle and landed in the river. The water was pretty cold. I went under and then came up as quickly as I could to get some air. I brushed the water grass off my face and rubbed the water out of my eyes. Then I looked back at the Land Rover. Everybody was yelling and pointing at something to my left. My hearing aids weren’t working because of the water, so I couldn’t make out what they were yelling or saying. I looked over to my left and realized why they were so upset. A crocodile was swimming straight for me.
I knew if I turned toward shore, I wouldn’t get out of the water in time and the crocodile would snatch me from behind. I also knew that I wouldn’t go down without fighting. In a flash, I realized that I wasn’t done living my life. The crocodile disappeared underwater. Out of the corner of my eye, I could see the people on shore yelling and waving their arms like crazy, trying to get me to come out of the water. Instead I dove underwater to face the crocodile. The water was muddy, but I could see a dark figure coming straight for me. I held my breath and waited for him to get closer.
When the crocodile was about two feet away, he opened his huge jaws. His intentions were clear. Somehow I grabbed his nose and lower jaw to keep his mouth away from me. His powerful jaws were able to snap even though I was still holding on to him. I don’t know how, but I knew I had to keep my fingers away from his teeth. We thrashed around until I felt the river bottom under my feet. I’m not sure where I got the strength—maybe the crocodile was getting tired—but somehow I threw the crocodile’s mouth in the other direction so I could scramble out to dry land. I looked back and saw the crocodile swimming away from me.
I was soaking wet, but there wasn’t a single scratch on me. Everybody in the Land Rover was staring at me, dumb-founded and near tears. Nobody said anything, so I just laughed and said, “I’m okay, folks.” After a moment or two, one staff member broke the silence, “I thought you were dead.” “Yea, me too,” another person said quietly. Then suddenly everyone was talking at once. Our guides were right there so they saw the whole thing. One of the guides came up to me and said, “You are one lucky bitch, you could’ve been croc food in there.” He laughed and patted me on my shoulder. All I could do was laugh about it and then we went on the boat drive to learn all about crocodiles.
After the boat drive, the guides wanted me to come back to the office with them and tell the rest of their team about what happened in the water. I tried my best to tell the story though it was difficult to explain how the hell I had survived without any knowledge or experience with crocodiles. All I could say was that it must have been some kind of survival instinct. I had a clear memory of an inner voice telling me not to touch the teeth when I grabbed the mouth so I wouldn’t lose any fingers or limbs. All the guides were acting like my experiences was some kind of a miracle and I was a crocodile whisperer or something.
At the end of the day, the staff decided we should go out for drinks since everyone had been really scared when I was in the water. All evening, I kept thinking, “Whoa, I could’ve died back there! How did I escape from that crocodile? No way I’m telling my family about this!” Everyone told their own version of the story. “I cannot believe how far you went flying out of the vehicle into the water!” “That crocodile must have been so pissed that you got away!” “You could’ve died!” It was getting harder for me to remember what really happened, but as the evening faded, I felt relief that the day was over—and that I had survived it.
The next morning, I woke up feeling even more confused about what had happened. At breakfast, I sat with the staff member and some of the volunteers. They were acting like it was any other day. Finally, I had to ask: “Did we visit a wetland park yesterday?”
They all looked at me like I had lost my mind. Finally someone said, “Noooo,” really slowly, like they were trying to figure out what I was talking about.
I asked again “Are you sure we didn’t go anywhere near water or crocodiles?”
They were very sure. “No, we didn’t leave the game preserve yesterday.”
“So I never really fell in the water and had to fight off a crocodile?”
“What?!?!”
That’s when I realized…it must have been a dream, the most vivid dream I’ve ever had.
When I told everybody about my dream, they all thought it was crazy that I had remembered so many details. For me, the crazy part was that it felt so real.
Later on, somebody told me that, when a crocodile appears in a dream, it’s a sign of healing. That’s interesting, considering that, in my dream, the crocodile was trying to eat me!
I’m not sure why I had this dream or what the heck it means. All I know is that being in Africa is changing me. My experiences here are seeping into my dreams. Yes, there are dangers, but in my dreams at least, I know what I need to do it survive!
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Reflection
I have been in Africa for more than a month. That’s longer than my first trip last year, and it seemed like a good time to reflect on what I’ve experienced in the past weeks and what I hope for in the weeks to come. That’s why I decided to stay in at Thanda last weekend. It’s always tempting to go back to Rocktail Bay or even to a hotel for a night of unlimited water and Wifi, but I wanted to get the experience of being completely alone at the lodge.
For me, it was a great day of peace and quiet. Maybe it wouldn’t be so quiet for hearing people because I’m pretty sure there were frogs croaking, crickets chirping and maybe even lions roaring in the distance. I haven’t exactly been able to hear the sounds made by wildlife, but that doesn’t really matter to me. I am getting better at understanding what is communicated through action—body language, facial expression, even eye contact.
Even after a weekend on my own, it’s hard to summarize the experiences and feelings I’ve had during these first weeks at Thanda. I just know that I deeply love being here, and I can’t wait to see what the coming weeks will bring.
Monday, March 4, 2013
My Duties at Thanda Part 3
In my last two posts about my duties at Thanda, I wrote about the photography and conservation work that volunteers do at Thanda. We spend most of our time on those duties, but we also get
to be part of the community outreach. African Impact is involved in many
educational projects, and volunteers help out in those programs too.
Volunteers also work with two schools in the local rural communities
around Thanda. The first school is Mafa School about 25 minutes away from the
game reserve. From this school we collect the sixth graders and drive them to
our education centre at Ulwazi. With volunteer help, the children learn about
the special wildlife on Thanda and the importance of conservation. These
outings are rounded off by lunch and a drive home often accompanied by singing.
Some days we visit the local crèches and help out with the
lesson plans. The kids at the crèches are from newborn to 4 years. It is so
much fun being around them. The lesson plans help them prepare for school. We
help them learn English words including ABC’s, days of the week, names of
animals and so on. We have fun with them during play time. They love hugs and
cuddles and even blowing bubbles!
The second school is Mdletshe, where our work is also
supported by the Happy Africa Foundation. The school has three classrooms and,
depending on the number of volunteers, we prepare lessons for one or two
groups. These are elementary age kids, so they love crafts and coloring.
Last but not least, volunteers are expected to take care of
small duties at the lodge. One week I was equipment manager, so I had to make
sure all equipment was accounted for and nothing went missing or get lost on
our expeditions. Another week, I was the environmentalist, so I had to make
sure water was properly recycled and the electricity was not being overused. I
also had to see to it that the lodge was organized and clean – no trash or
dirty dishes! I’m looking forward to other assignments such as gardener for
watering the garden and reporter for posting news on our Facebook page.
Since I came here as a photographer, I try to take
photographs of everything that happens – animals, conservation work, community
projects, and people. You never really know what kind of photography the Thanda
team will need as they try to tell the story of all the important work that’s
going on here. They may want to spotlight a particular project or praise the
accomplishments of a particular volunteer. For me, photography ties everything
together.
So now you know what it means to be a volunteer at Thanda.
Every day is different. Every day is full. Every day seems meaningful.
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